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Hotel reviewSoufrière, Saint Lucia

Jade Mountain review: rooms with three walls and the Pitons in the fourth

Soufrière, Saint Lucia — four nights in a Star sanctuary

FlexStays Editorial · 15 June 2023 · 7 min read · Our score 9.4/10

Jade Mountain open-wall sanctuary looking towards the Pitons in Saint Lucia

Every sanctuary is missing an entire wall, so the view of the Pitons is the room. Add an infinity pool per suite and no televisions.

What we liked

  • Open-wall sanctuaries with private infinity pools and Piton views
  • Access to Anse Chastanet's beaches, reef and dive operation
  • Adults-only calm, no televisions, very little noise

Worth knowing

  • Open architecture means insects, weather and no air conditioning in the living space
  • Steep site with lots of stairs
  • Getting to Soufrière from the airport takes over an hour

The design concept and layout

Rising above the verdant coastline of Soufrière, Jade Mountain is less a traditional hotel and more a structural masterpiece of stone, wood, and water. Designed by architect Nick Troubetzkoy, the property is defined by its organic, brutalist aesthetic, where bridges of stone lead across voids to individual sanctuaries. The most striking element is the deliberate absence of a fourth wall in every suite, creating a seamless transition between the interior space and the Caribbean sky. This architectural audacity ensures that the twin peaks of the Pitons are not merely a view from the window, but the primary decorative feature of the living area.

The resort is perched steeply on a hillside, overlooking its sister property, Anse Chastanet. Navigating the site requires a degree of physical fitness, as the layout follows the natural topography with numerous stairs and winding walkways connecting the various levels. There is a sense of immense privacy here, as the sanctuaries are staggered to ensure that no guest can see into another's living space. The lack of traditional corridors or enclosed lobbies reinforces the feeling of being entirely exposed to the elements, albeit in an environment of carefully curated luxury that feels both primitive and sophisticated.

Sanctuaries without walls

The accommodations, classified as sanctuaries rather than rooms, are categorised by their size and height on the hillside, with Star sanctuaries offering a generous footprint and expansive vistas. Each unit features a private infinity pool lined with hand-crafted glass tiles that reflect the shifting colours of the Saint Lucian sky. The interior palette is dominated by tropical hardwoods and rugged stonework, providing a tactile, grounded contrast to the airy openness of the room. Because the fourth wall is entirely missing, the sounds of the jungle and the scent of the sea air are constant companions throughout the day and night.

Living without a fourth wall necessitates a specific mindset. There is no air conditioning in the main living and pool area, though the bedroom alcove is enclosed and cooled to ensure a comfortable night's sleep. Guests must be prepared for the realities of the Caribbean environment, including the occasional rain shower drifting into the room's airspace and the presence of local wildlife such as geckos or birds. The resort deliberately omits televisions and telephones to maintain a peaceful atmosphere, though Wi-Fi is available for those who cannot entirely disconnect from the outside world during their stay.

Gastronomy at the Jade Mountain Club

Dining takes place at the Jade Mountain Club, a space that feels suspended between the clouds. The menu is overseen by James Beard Award winner Allen Susser and focuses on what the resort calls Jade Cuisine, a fusion of tropical flavours and modern techniques. Much of the produce, including chocolate, honey, and vegetables, is sourced directly from the resort's own Emerald Estate farm. The quality of the food is notably consistent, avoiding the common pitfalls of Caribbean resorts that often struggle with sourcing high-quality ingredients for ambitious menus.

Breakfast is a leisurely affair, featuring local specialities like saltfish and green fig alongside more international options. By night, the atmosphere shifts as the club is lit by lanterns, and the Pitons become silhouettes against the stars. While the dining experience is exceptional, guests should be aware that costs for food and drink escalate quickly. Opting for a meal plan is often advisable for those who wish to avoid a significant bill at checkout, though the premium pricing reflects the logistical challenges of transporting high-end ingredients to this remote corner of the island.

Accessing the shoreline and reef

While Jade Mountain occupies the upper reaches of the hillside, guests have full access to the facilities of Anse Chastanet located directly below. This includes two distinct volcanic sand beaches where the water is calm and clear. The descent can be made on foot for those who enjoy the exercise, though a regular shuttle service is provided for convenience. The lower resort offers a more conventional beach holiday experience, providing a social contrast to the secluded, almost monastic calm of the sanctuaries above.

The house reef at Anse Chastanet is widely regarded as one of the finest in the Caribbean, easily accessible just a few metres from the shore. This makes it an ideal location for both snorkelling and scuba diving, with a professional dive operation on-site to assist guests of all experience levels. The marine protected area is teeming with life, from colourful parrotfish to sea turtles, offering a world-class underwater experience without the need for lengthy boat trips. Having this natural resource at the foot of the hill adds significant value to a stay at the resort.

The Kai en Ciel spa and wellness

Wellness is integrated into the fabric of the resort, with the Kai en Ciel spa offering a range of treatments that can be performed in a dedicated therapy room or within the privacy of a guest's sanctuary. The spa menu focuses on holistic rituals using local ingredients like cocoa beans and sea salt, designed to mirror the restorative nature of the architecture. There is also a small fitness studio and a boutique, though most guests find that the physical act of traversing the resort's stairs provides ample exercise.

Yoga sessions are held regularly, often on the Celestial Terrace, providing a meditative start to the day as the sun rises over the mountains. The absence of children and the lack of electronic distractions create an environment naturally suited to mindfulness and relaxation. For those seeking deeper rejuvenation, the infinity pools in each sanctuary are large enough for swimming laps, allowing for a private fitness routine with one of the world's most dramatic backdrops. It is a place where the pace of life slows down significantly by design.

Exploring the Soufrière region

Located on the southwestern coast of Saint Lucia, the resort is perfectly positioned for exploring the island's most iconic natural landmarks. The town of Soufrière itself is a short drive away, offering a glimpse into local life with its colourful colonial buildings and bustling waterfront. The nearby Sulphur Springs provide the opportunity for mud baths in the caldera of a dormant volcano, while the Diamond Botanical Gardens offer a lush escape featuring a mineral-rich waterfall. These excursions provide a necessary cultural context to an otherwise insular luxury experience.

Getting to the resort is an experience in itself, requiring a journey of over an hour from Hewanorra International Airport. The road is famously winding and steep, particularly the final unpaved stretch leading up to the property. While the drive can be taxing for some, it serves to reinforce the sense of isolation and exclusivity that defines Jade Mountain. The remote location is the price one pays for such an undisturbed view of the Pitons, and most visitors find the trek well worth the effort once they arrive at the spectacular entrance.

Service and the Major Domo

Service at the resort is anchored by the Major Domo system, where each guest is assigned a dedicated butler to handle all requests. These staff members are trained to be intuitive and discreet, managing everything from dinner reservations and excursion bookings to the delivery of sundowner cocktails. Communication is handled via a dedicated mobile device, ensuring that help is always available without the need for a traditional in-room telephone. This high level of personalised attention is a hallmark of the Jade Mountain experience and justifies much of the room rate.

The staff are predominantly local and possess a deep knowledge of the island, often sharing insights that go beyond the standard tourist brochure. Whether it is arranging a private dinner on the Celestial Terrace or ensuring the sanctuary is prepared with fresh flowers, the service feels genuine rather than scripted. There is a palpable pride among the team in working at such a landmark property, which translates into a warm and attentive atmosphere that manages to be professional without ever feeling stiff or formal.

Suitability and the verdict

Jade Mountain is a specific kind of paradise that will not suit everyone. It is an ideal destination for honeymooners or couples celebrating a significant milestone, offering a romantic intensity that is difficult to replicate. However, those who require air conditioning in their living spaces or who have significant mobility issues may find the open-air design and steep stairs challenging. For such guests, the more traditional rooms at Anse Chastanet offer a similar location at a lower price point. It is also an adults-only environment, so families with children will need to look elsewhere.

In terms of value, this is one of the most expensive resorts in the region, but the uniqueness of the architecture provides a justification for the cost. To find the most competitive rates, visitors should look at the period from June to early November, when prices fall sharply due to the increased chance of rain. The high season runs from mid-December to April, offering the most reliable weather but at a significant premium. For those who value design and a true connection to the landscape, Jade Mountain remains an unparalleled Caribbean icon that delivers a truly unforgettable stay.

Jade Mountain Resort photo 1Jade Mountain Resort photo 2Jade Mountain Resort photo 3Jade Mountain Resort photo 4
Pricing tip

Rates fall sharply from June to early November; mid-December to April is the Caribbean high season.

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